1. Place the mortar on one side of the board, first we shown the front handed techniqu.

2. Use the blade of the trowel to cut the mortar and roll it across the board.

3. Once the mortar looks similar to this, pick it up using a fast, scraping motion.

4. Now using the other side of the trowel...

5. The same cutting and rolling technique is used.

6. Take note how Dave's wrist twists when releasing the mortar.

1. Before producing your half lap joint, ensure you have cut your timber to the required length.

2. Pick the best side of each piece of timber to work and begin to measure out for marking.

3. Repeat this with your second block of timber.

4. Use marking gauge to find the centre.

5. Once again repeat this with your second block of timber.

6. Mark out where you are going to cut.

7. Using the tenon saw, begin cutting each block of timber.

8. Re-adjust your vice and continue cutting your timber using the technique shown.

9. Chisel the surface of the cut timber, making a smooth joint.

10. Repeat this for your second block of timber. 

11. Using this cutting technique makes it easier to produce a cleaner joint, which is easier to cut.

12. Chisel once again to make a flat surface for the two blocks of timber to join.

1. Set up the board and wet it, this is important as a dry board will suck the water out of the mortar.

2. Place the dry mortar on the centre of the board and make a hole in the mortar.

3. Slowly add water…

4. Cover the water using the dry mortar.

5. Begin mixing the mortar...

6. Create another hole in the mortar and once again, add water.

7.Continue mixing...

8. The mortar should eventually become a suitable consistency and be ready to use.

1. To set out a right angle, draw a line 3 units long at 90 degrees and draw another line 4 units long.

2. The diagonal should be 5 units long

3. Using pegs on nails measure 3 units, set 4 units at 90 degrees, this gives 7 units the diagonal should be 5 added to 7 equalling 12 units

4. Use a builder’s square to draw a 90-degree line. 

1. For all brickwork to be level, it is important to make sure all brickwork is set to gauge.

2. Giving a standard brick is 65mm and the mortar bed is 10mm, draw your gauge lines at 75mm intervals.

3. Following the lines, set the brick one on top of the other to form a tower.

4. Continue this throughout the course of the gauge tower.

5. Following this technique, you should have a complete gauge tower.

1. Set Rebate to measurements required.

2. Pass over timber until measurements are met.

1. To begin, set up your blocks and wood like shown 

2. When laying out your brick, ensure the first brick is placed on the edge of the wood

3. Put mortar on the face side of the second brick

4. Add mortar to the rest of the wood and repeat the same method with the third brick

5. And the fourth...

6. To complete the first course, add a half brick after the fourth is set

7. Repeat this technique for the second course 

8. Now adding the half brick to the opposite end 

9. Whilst completing, make sure the bricks are level

10. If measured correctly, the wall should measure as four and a half bricks

11. Once again, repeat this method for the third course

1. Use a builder’s square to set the corner at 90 degrees

2. Lay out your mortar like shown and set your first brick to gauge

3. Use the level to accurately check the first brick

4. Repeat the same with your second brick, adding mortar to the face side

5. Lay out your mortar following the 90 degree line and set your third brick 

6. Repeat the process with the fourth brick 

7. Ensure the course is level

8. Repeat this for your second course

9. Check the gauge once again 

10. Make sure it is level

11. It is vital to ensure the course is level and set to gauge

12. Once again repeat this method 

13. And once again for the third course

14. Set to gauge one more time and ensure the brick corner is level

15. This method can be amplified using more brick to create larger corners